Zacharias Winery Kidonitsa 2018
The next Malagousia
The demand for rare often unpronounceable grapes has not gone unnoticed by the mid-size and large merchants. Of all the striking white grapes originating in the Peloponnesos increasingly Kydonitsa or Kidonitsa seem to top my list. It first came to my attention via the Vatista and Tsibidis vineyards in Laconia. Helias Zacharias who has been at the helm for 25 years of the eponymous negociant in Neméa, has been transforming this successful address by investing in vineyards and hiring Petros Tsioros to head winemaking. Ex Gaia Ioanna Gavriil is in charge of quality control.
To my understanding Zacharias was the first to spot the complete unknown Sclava, a white grape found in between the 2,500 hectares of Neméa’s Agiorgitiko, which we still know little about.
In his Boulougra single vineyard, on the Nemèa valley floor near the Gymno & Aidonia junction
he has increased both Sclava and more importantly Kidonitsa plantings, which at this stage, I rate higher. On my field visit I learned from vineyard manager Panayiotis Plassaras that Kidonitsa is a slow and late ripener both useful for climate change challenges. What’s in a name? Kidonitsa Greek for little quince or as I have stated in these pages the little prince. In this new bone dry efforts in all parts of the Peloponesos and now elsewhere in Chalkidiki at Aslanis, one finds raw quince aroma rather than baked quince jelly allusions in the sun-dried dessert blends. The overall first impression is of classy singularity. A noble expression on the lovely aromatics with a picture that follows through on the palate and finish. It is vinous yet not heavy or dull. Polished, well mannered, distinctive as they come. It is a no brainer that this rising star on the move out of its southern Peloponnesos journey has attention grabbing genes to become important not only in Greece but reach beyond its borders. Actually there are many catch a rising star grapes in the wine firmament. There is little doubt that Kidonitsa ticks all the boxes and has the substance to become the next Malagousia. If I was about to pocket my viticultural degree I know which of the white grapes to plant. Just watch wine lists featuring this back to the future grape. There is more of them coming on stream as these lines are written. The old saying you can not keep a good thing down for ever has never been more pertinent.
Synthetic closure, 100% recyclable. A light spritz of carbonic gas which quickly dissipates. Limpid pale golden with green tints. Viscous ‘tears’ (label states 14% Vol). Cornucopia of aromatics with kumquat-bergamot jockeying for position. Round, richly textured with lingering finish of crunchy fruit & lime chalky qualities. Heat. Squeaky clean bone dry palate awakening citrus aftertaste. Confirming high potential even in not an easy vintage. More energy than any Malagousia out there.
Wine: Zacharias Winery Kidonitsa
Year: 2018
Link: http://www.zacharias.com.gr
Score: 16,5/20
Type: White
Variety: Kidonitsa
Area: Peloponnese