Hoof power
When I first visited Florina in 1995 there was one producer the Amyndeo Co-Operative. Their Amyndas Xinomavro 1990 in a dumpy was priced at 180 Drachmas. It was not the bargain price that impressed me most but the wine in the anachronistic packaging. A cooler climate aromatic profile oozing freshness with silky smooth tannins. That it was in top shape after maturing in the bottle, made me think beyond the obvious potential. Then land prices were cheap, sandy loam topsoils on a bedrock of limestone, abundant water, dry long growing season. Why would, anyone not want to invest there? Well they did: 24 years later including the venerable Co-Operative they now number 12 wineries.
One of the more relative recent arrivals was the Dutch couple Annete Van Kampen and Laurens Hartman. There is a Greek grandmother on Lauren’s side who chose her surname as a trading name for their built from scratch estate. It has been an admirable story. Hard work, attention to details and grit have built one of the most original voices on the wine scene. Though his stellar sparkling wines have made us sit and pay attention to their finesse and purity the still wines have attracted my attention recently. No, I am not looking to find that elusive 1990 Xinomavro that broadened my horizons. This time, another then complete unknown red grape, has been taken to new heights. In another life Anette and Laurens filled Dutch Libraries with encyclopedias. They have now illuminated us with the charms of Limniona as a varietal or in blends. It is a pretty picture not with out personal cost. Their travails and fustrations in establishing and charting a serious investment in an to them unknown and at times exasperating system must have been their biggest challenge. There are other addresses dripping sweat equity though few have pulled through with such gusto in never giving up in pursuing their dream. And in return offering much pleasure to us who pop or pull a cork from their ever impressive wines. There is another twist in this adventure, their now teenager son Joris who was an infant when I first saw him. He has the fascinating experience of a Dutch boy growing up in his new home in rural Florina. One day that should be some story to tell. This address has forged a natural wine approach. It never ceases to improve now introducing biodynamics to their organic farming. The latest addition on this complex misunderstood discipline is hoof power. True to his no half measures in acquiring new skills Laurens trained in handling mules in the vineyards of Savoie. Two of these magnificent creatures have been shipped from France to their new Amyndeo home. What next?
Unfiltered. Youthful purple blue rim. Dark for this grape. Spice and earthy notes. Aerating it: opens picking up complexity on the aroma and long savoury palate. Finely judged use of oak. Amyndeo flint minerality lurks beneath the intense deep black fruit vinous flavours. Well defined. A fuller expression than the usual lighter fragrant wines we see on this plateau. A power vintage that is deftly handled – what a balancing act. Still closed, will unfold over many years. 2020-2032
Wine: Karanika Limniona
Year: 2017
Link: http//:www.karanika.com
Score: 18/20
Type: Red
Variety: Limniona
Area: Macedonia