Serendipity
Due to price hikes on Santorini interest for better value expressions had savvy buyers looking elsewhere. On the export markets Crete’s Assyrtiko was the first to benefit. We now have an unexpected development from one of the country’s historic addresses. Katogi Averoff in Metsovo is celebrating it’s 60th anniversary. The baton has been passed to Alexandros Ioannou son of long term at the helm guiding light Sotiris Ioannou. Alexandros and his partner Maria Kapou actually moved to Metsovo and manage hands on vineyards, winery and cultural activities they hold at their stone built cellars and art oriented boutique hotel. An influential digital agency was researching strategy during my visit. To my understanding their ambitious plans include several new unexplored routes in this ever changing medium of communication. Fun to watch how and what eventually emerges from this new effort.
Arriving from the port of Igoumenitsa the Egnatia highway leads you to a little known or seen part of Greece. This is alpine Greece with slate roofed houses, schistous vineyards and snow. In its own way it reminds one of Italy’s Dolomites. Other unexpected ‘locals’ include the brown bear of Pindos. If your language is Latin based you will feel right at home as the spoken language on this part of the world of the Aroumanian Vlachish, is also Latin based. In as much that new to Metsovo Romanian nationals had no difficulty in communicating and integrating into the local culture. Despite what linguists tell us that modern Greek is a mid-level difficulty language many find it challenging. There is a book about whose succinct title is memorable ”Greek in 25 years” by Brian Church. Press on, do not give up.
There is a long standing bright team behind this address. Marketing is handled by the watchful Maria Dimou who with her O.I.V.MSc diploma in pocket joined K.A. two decades ago. She tends to operate in the shadows offering continuity advise and finding solutions in an increasing complicated market. Another stalwart is long standing chief oenologist Dimitris Ziannis who reaches beyond their own Metsovo holdings finding some the most professional focused grape farmers. He is as accurate and imaginative in his winemaking as his award winning photography with followers appreciating his what he call’s ‘relaxing hobby’. He is more than a clever chap behind the lens capturing bleakness and other sparse minimalist powerful message filled images. He is equally modest with his vinous creations. For all the years I have known him he has never said much let alone boast. When pressed on this Aegean in the north revelation he just shrugged though a twinkle of pride sparked in his eyes. His choice of the elegant black screw cap will not only help it keep longer fresher in the home market. It has the Commercial Director & Exports Vasilis Anastasopoulos grinnning from ear to ear. On this note a plea to other producers whose some of their wines actually taste better under screw caps than cork. You would be surprised how many reds would be far more defined than synthetics or natural corks. Thank you for indulging me, back to the reviewed wine. Inima? Well do not rush off to a Greek lexicon as it is soul in Vlachish and this Athiri Assyrtiko has it in spades.
Screw capped. Hide and seek between the 60-65% Athiri and Assyrtiko balance. This is northern Greece grown grapes with more expressive aromatics and more polished than in your face island grown Laphroaig-like smokey salinity. Useful ABV 12,5 %. Initially flower of the vine aromatics and other white flowers with Athiri having the upper hand. Thumb rubbed thyme fragrance with Athiri’s creamy richness counterbalancing the textured stoney minerality of Assyrtiko. A convincing accomplished digest alternative counterpoint to the mother of Greek terroir. 2019-2023
Wine: Katogi Averoff Inima
Year: 2018
Link: https://www.katogiaveroff.gr
Score: 17,5 /20
Type: White
Area: Epirus