Within eye distance of Athens International Airport one sees thousands of acres in vine This is par excellence white wine country planted to the Savatiano grape
More recently the aromatic Malagousia grape has also been grown in this sea of Savatiano vineyards Hailing from northwestern Central Greece this fashionable aromatic grape seems to have adapted well in its new limestonerich home
In its 21st century incarnation the Papagiannakos winery has garnered praise in architecture magazines It has also picked up several awards for its energyefficient design In a roundabout way this new dessert wine has much in common with its ancestors in these vineyards Malagousia is the Greek vineyards less oily answer to Viognier In Atticas longstanding farming traditions out of thrifty necessity locals maximized the vines offerings through resourcefulness In late springearly summer vert jus from unripe green grapes was used as an alternative to lemon juice During harvest grape must was used as natural sweetener to bake biscuits named mousto must kouloura A dash of cinnamon et voil healthy energypacking carbohydrates The fine lees were used in baking pork Lees and grape pips were used as a protective rind in cheesemaking Nothing went to waste
Topping this rather long list of uses is vrasto boiled to make sweet wine some of it served sacramental purposes and some as a handy pickmeup during winter pruning There was a social aspect in partaking at Xmas or drinking by the fireplace Vrasto is the method that 3rdgeneration winemaker Vassilis Papagiannakos has revived for this maiden vintage of Melas He starts with boiling approximately 40 of the desired final quantity of wine with Malagousia grape must He then adds successive doses of the live fermenting grape must Eventually this goldencoloured nectar ends up with 13 ABV Natural sugar reaches 120 grl Balance in such a rich wine comes from 69 grl of acidity in tartaric The uncluttered label is elegant not unlike the liquid itself in a useful 500 ml clear bottle Who says Attican wines are boring
Honeycomb waxiness acaciahoney aroma Smokey Ripe pineapple Textured cedrat on the mediumlength layered finish Fine balance Satisfying Drink 2011 2016
Wine: Melias Domaine Papagiannakos
Year: 2010
Link: http://www.papagiannakos.gr/
Score: 17.5
Type: Sweet
Variety: Savatiano
Area: Central Greece