The colour of several Naoussas has become increasingly and atypically darker Is this down to climate change I do not think so New clones The acreage is minute to make such a difference
One of the attractive traits of this grape is its inherently medium red colour There is no purpleblue anthocyanin here as in Syrah or Aghiorghitiko Colourwise it keeps company with Pinot Noir Its tannic structure resembles Nebbiolo from Piemonte
Unfortunately a few addresses are succumbing to a makeover notion that darker is better I find it a pity that the odd bucket or two of Syrah or poorly farmed Merlot find their way into these wines Yet the crux of the problem is farming practices Few Greek winemakers understand that with climate change and vines overstressed by lack of water especially during vraison there is a risk for the muscular tannins of Xinomavro to dry out Recent statistics show a decrease in annual rainfall on this patchwork of vineyards below Mount Vermion 2052 m especially during periods when it is most needed Moreover only a handful of vignerons are willing to risk harvesting late which would give this vigorous grape a chance to deliver fully ripened grapes
Ever since the remarkably aromatic and delicate 2004 I have chronicled the rise of Ghi ke UranosEarth and Sky It was more than an eyeopener it was the longawaited next step
With this youngvine Naoussa Apostolos Thymiopoulos continues to set an example to this underperforming appellation of how to ripen Xinomavro This estate has now become Naoussas tannin management champions This singlevineyard wine in its maiden vintage comes from the young vines on the Ghi ke Uranos slope Back in 2005 I took note of these then scrawny vines Wine from these young vines was sold in bulk until now There is a lot to be said for patience It is essential if one is to make a statement backed by deeds rather than marketing hype
It is for this level of commitment in safeguarding the high standards of Ghi ke Uranos Uranos in the US that this producer continues to earn praise 2009 was a difficult rainplagued vintage but the breeze on this slope helped out against rot as did terroir
Bright ruby Upfront fruity charm Dark cherries freshness Smooth texture Seamless oak Persistent crystalline elegant Purity and breed Serve at cellar temperature Best 20112016