In another life one of the features was a profile of Santorinis unique vineyard in The Greek Wine Guide 1996 Edition This jewel of an island vineyard was then promising yet unknown to foreign markets It was obvious that these penetrating before chilling chambers angular bonedry wines would create a cult following spearheading modern Greek wine out of relative anonymity Such an improbable windswept vineyard was too much of a good story not to become a darling by switchedon merchants and sommeliers looking for something different
It seems like yesterday summer 1995 that the late George Venetsanos took me to his winery perched on the calderas rim to discuss details of how master builder Tzorzis Saliveros and he set out in 1947 and completed in 1949 this oneofakind gravityfed winery One still marvels at the inclined floor so water would selfdrain At the Venetianera knowhow steps where transported goods solid or liquid would remain shoulder horizontal In the winerys belly the two giant pearshaped water cisterns are aweinspiring to look down into and marvel at their craftsmanship Once they were vital as the longstanding joke on the island was that wine is more plentiful than water This lovingly restored piece of vintage industrial design is a labour of love by brothers Nikos and Vangelis Zorzos successors to the Venetsanos Bros Oenologist Ioanna Vamvakouri has been entrusted with spearheading this exciting revival She has recently been joined by colleague Katerina Mitzelou who also has previous experience on the island Endowed with ten hectares this is a true estate located in highly thoughtof Pyrgos and Megalochori Four labels are being launched in the splendid 2014 vintage a bonedry Santorini the previewed Nykteri a modern take of red Mandelari with a twist and a 2007 Vinsanto inherited from the cellar
Venetsanos Bros visionary canava is a landmark adding needed momentum in favour of the diminishing vineyards threatened by urban development Arguments for comprehensive landzoning review are growing It is imperative for building checks to be put in place sooner as later is not really an option Meanwhile at the newly opened rooftop wine bar on this historic site overlooking the caldera cliffs and the Nea Kammeni lava islet the view is as breathtaking as it was on my first visit to the island 23 years ago A few days before the official opening I sat there in contemplation in a rare moment of windless calm chewing natures precious gift Assyrtikos genial mineralcharged tannic backbone reaching deeper There is a glow It is a nice place to be
Ai Giorgis single vineyard uppermid slope below the village of Pyrgos Perfectly judged picking window for this style of wine checking in at ABV 14 Elegantly built Crystalline fruit on the entry with a linear presence throughout Seamless oak Blossoming into a stony saline finish of compact minerality Nicely textured Still tight it will age beautifully rewarding patience Imperative to carafe Best 20162028
Wine: Venetsanos Winery Santorini Nykteri
Year: 2014
Link: http://www.venetsanoswinery.com
Score: 18
Type: White
Variety: Assyrtiko
Area: Aegean Islands