Kitros Pieria Preliminary research showed that I was to see mussel farms salt pans a protected wetland rich in rare bird species and the snowcapped Mount Olympus It turned out differently I was greeted by low cloud and mist Neatly farmed rolling hills Oddlooking highpergola vines A puff of snow on the ground Or so I thought There is nothing like putting on my beloved hiking boots and heading out over wet sandy clay to see firsthand all these halfobscured sightings These were no vines bearing grapes They were kiwis The puff of snow leftover cotton buds Worst of all no sight of Mount Olympus which on a clear day is of magnificent presence Nikos and Helias Chrisostomou are amongst the most openminded progressive farmers I have met Their career path is a lovely story We farmed kiwis knew nothing of wine Our father made a little red wine for his pleasure said Nikos Great volatile acidity quips Helias We were in our twenties so we enrolled to Thessalonikibased Maria Netsikas tutored tastings We discovered a new world Fifteen years later they had planted vines and built with their own hands their underground cellar We went out to see their vineyards A few sunrays breaking through still no sight of the tall mountain Their farming principles are a case study of how to manage each variety appropriately They are learning each year of the demanding rediscovered Limniona Consulting oenologist Angeliki Biba collecting samples joined us Limniona is vigorous it needs stony soil to reduce cluster size Smallersized berries are more aromatic The florality tends towards sweetsmelling flowers such as magnolia This reminds me of the superiority of the female sense of smell It is more subtle than boys As we age their sense of smell lasts longer too Back in the cellar there were no false notes in tasting from numerous casks The two brothers first planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot then in vogue They are exemplary Great for the home market Ripe and tasty Marked by freshness They reminded me of southern France From a homogeneous lineup it was the XinomavroLimniona blend Mousaios that stole the show It is on the vanguard of this upandcoming region Bold and brave it breaks through into new territory It illustrates these humble pragmatic stewards of the soil their fresh perspective into wine As the mist got denser I saw nothing of my actionlist The next visit is already planned One never knows in spring it may snow
Floral Peppery dark fruit Complex and appealing firm structure Refreshing tannic bite Integrated olderoak support Savoury meaty notes Voluptuous texture Tobacco leaf on the attractive earthy finish Stylistically it bridges modern Naoussa Xinomavro with newwave Tyrnavos Limniona The most exciting energized allGreek blend in ages Indicates the potential of a littleknown terroir
Wine: Chrisostomou Estate Mousaios
Year: 2012
Link: http://www.chrisostomou.gr
Score: 17
Type: Red
Area: Macedonia