Wine made from ungrafted vines is rare Examples include Charles Jogues Cabernet franc in Chinon Chateau Barejat in Madiran topped by the ethereal Domaine Gramenon in the Rhone
In broad terms ungrafted vines give introspective less showy wines Invariably they echo the wines produced from the same grape variety using phylloxeraresistant rootstock One such recent example on my travels was the Domaine Karanika Amyndeo Xinomavro Palea Klimata
The current discovery has been consulting oenologist Panos Zoumbouliss longheld dream His experience with Nemea spans 25 years This is no ordinary Agiorgitiko LTM Palies Rizes is relevant to our lifespan Oneoff gems like Flora Damigous memorable 1895 Santorini Vinsanto shared in London with Jancis Robinson Maggie McNie and Steven Spurrier will outlive us When 70yearolds speak one listens carefully It is a form of sharing the essence of lifelong learning and experience
Now living in Greece Frenchborn and educated vineyardistoenologist Elsa Picard shared her insights in this first effort She has been instrumental under Zoumbouliss guidance in developing the ambitious La Tour Melas Estate in Achinos Fthiotida When one is lucky enough to find such a rarity in Nemea nobody quite knows how it will turn out Zoumboulis illuminates We have no idea how old it is 100 110 120 Moreover there is a further characteristically Greek twist It is sitting on ancient ruins If it is grubbed up it cannot be replanted The old boy who farmed it died A friend of his continues to take care of it This wonderful story is of a prisoner of sorts trapped by antiquities legislature There are 1800 bottles of this reviewed wine How often do you come across an enjoyable wine from vines of an age we are unlikely to reach
Purpleblue rimmed Dark for this variety Whiff of crushed peppercorn Restrained aroma of black cherries Followed by intensely fruited concentrated vinous roundness Silky texture Impressive long finish with repeat cherries on the viscous aftertaste A modern wellmade take from very old vines A fascinating glimpse of Agiorgitikos multifaceted aroma and suave tannin profile Complex and refined Singular Best 201523
Wine: La Tour Melas Palies Rizes
Year: 2013
Link: http://www.latourmelas.com
Score: 17.5
Type: Red
Variety: Agiorgitiko
Area: Peloponnese