One never knows what Santorinis volcanic embrace holds During a fiveday visit with tastings at nine wineries the most unexpected wine was the Athiri produced by Santo Wines the Cooperative In this instance the saying wine has the last word could not hold more true
Historians tell us Athiri has been in the southern Aegean islands since classical times For years my textbook example has been Athiri found amongst pine forests and stony slopes on Mount Ebonas on southern Rhodes Athiri on Santorini is part of the vineyard mix Placed between the boldtasting Assyrtiko and the softer fragrant Aidani Athiri does not have an easy life here It is prone to rot The summer maritime humidity more often does take its toll Nevertheless in recent memory the generally delicate Athiri has had a chance to shine on its own here The 2009 Greek vintage was difficult Look for my vintage report under Articles
Santo Wines have been trying hard to raise their game Oenologist Nikos Varvarigos has both the vision and tools to commit considerable resources on this bluechip demanding terroir There is marked improvement throughout their range Light years away from their past mediocrities I first experienced in the 1990s Residual sugar and other offthemark directionless styles
During tasting with the reserved Nikos Varvarigos in what must be one of the most sublime views in the world overlooking the Caldera and the youngest volcanic island of Nea Kameni the 2009 Athiri quietly grabbed my attention It was a revelation This limited release all of 3000 bottles sold only at the cellar door is the nearperfect springsummer sipping wine It does not have the staying power of the Assyrtikobased Santorinis It will hold through autumn As my turbopropped plane swooped up into the cloudy sky I could not stop wondering how such frail beauty could be born in such a hostile windswept ecosystem Ditto for a certain saying on wineSkin contact resulting in white flowers honeysuckle Faint minerality Soft juicy layered mineral persistence Subtle long finish Digestive and refreshing Elegant Hugely surprising A rare treat
Wine: Athiri Santo Wines
Year: 2009
Link: http://www.santowines.gr/
Score: 16.5
Type: White
Variety: Athiri
Area: Aegean Islands