The circumstances of my first encounter with Limniona were unusual. Not in a winery but in an institute. Namely: the Vine and Wine Institute in Athens. My initial visit two decades ago was to broaden my horizon with the then new to me indigenous grapes. Truth is that I have a sketchy recollection of the wines on the table. Except one. A label with a hand written reference code and the word Λημνιωνα. It was a discreetly perfumed and medium bodied. Nothing like anything I had ever come across. Though broaching 8 years in bottle it had no visible signs of oxidation in as much that I took the bottle and held it against the winter sun light. Impressive staying power. My hosts informed that it was a drought resistant near extinct variety sourced from Thessaly, central Greece. The only visit to deeper Thessaly in my early trips found Tyrnavos a large vineyard famous for cheap and cheerful retsina and sweet Muscat. More agricultural than a wine culture per se. It was also, still is, the unofficial capital of tsipouro: the clear grape spirit produced from Muscat of Hamburg. 12 years ago I heard that an unknown to me, young farmer, Christos Zafeirakis had planted Limniona. On my next trip I went to visit him.
Zafeirakis is a breath of fresh air. Born into a family who beyond vines cultivate fruit orchards. His learning journey started at the American Farm School in Thessaloniki where initiative and experimentation were encouraged. Costing too. He continued in Italy where he gained valuable internship experience. On a trip to Sicily to see his friend Andrea Marletta he discovered the lovely red wines of Etna which he admires. This helped him see the vision of the next step with Limniona. ” We had no viticultural reference. It took me 8 harvests to understand how to farm it”. He has clearly thought through the relationship between vines, winery and world trends. Embracing organic viticulture he took the indigenous yeast route and added finesse by reducing extraction. Gradually diminished barriques and switching to large Austrian coopered oak uprights, his cellar now sports jars and cement ovoids. New vineyards include recent Limniona plant material not previously available. Credit here to ampelographer-nursery Kostas Bakasietas who has been instrumental in this and other worthy research across the country. The emblematic Limniona (there is a toothsome L rosé, too) not only shook up the profile of Tyrnavos. It has spurred renewed interest in this variety now found in Meteora, in cooler-climate Amyndeon and Monemvasia. This forward-thinking estate wines are a revelation. There is more to come. Stay tuned.
Organic grapes. Indigenous yeast. Fermented in 3.000 liter vat then aged in 600 liters & 1,200 liter uprights. Mid-dark ruby. Complex spicy aroma with cherries in the background. White pepper on the ripe plums palate. ”Sweet” structure from non toasted oak. More dense and depth than recent vintages though not lacking energy throughout. A whiff of mineral. Layered dry finish. Checking in at 13,1% ABV lends balance. A kindred spirit to Bierzo and Etna. Modern soulful wine from a near extinct rare variety. Will this grape become a darling of climate change? Decant. Drink 2018-2025.
Wine: Domaine Zafeirakis Limniona
Year: 2015
Link: www.domainezafeirakis.gr
Score: 17.5 / 20
Type: Red
Variety: Limniona
Area: Central Greece