Incomers have an advantage In their new environment it is easier to identify strengths and weaknesses Vasilis Laderos moved from Chalkida in central Greece to Venerato above Heraklion He soon gained insight on the better vineyards and growers in these undulating calcareous soils varying from 350 500m altitude He founded Idaia Winery with Calliope Volitaki who is also an oenologist Nearby cellars also benefit from their consulting services
Insiders cringe and carp on about the green unripe tannins of Cretan red wines They used to have a point From a series of recent insitu tastings it is diminishing Nobody has done more to reinforce this change than Idaia They consistently deliver some of the most toothsome red wines Who else skipped the difficult 2011 reds If proof is in ageing the enjoyment I get from relatively older vintages of their KM keeps driving home several messages They are different to anything else in Greece It is an allCretan experience They capture that elusive sense of place Their smell and taste could come out of a medieval spice market in one of the island ports when Venetian galleys where shipping the muchindemand sweet wines of Malevizi Moreover they are appetising
Why are not more Cretan red exciting The unrealised potential is obvious and worth tapping into for more addresses If you are living in the northern hemisphere heading into winter you might do worse than track down some of this lipsmacking earthy cocktail In this review satisfying refers to the understated Not unlike how Idaia go about their business
Strangely one of the leastknown flying under the radar satisfying blends Dark The fruit is ripe and soft Spice Good intensity on the palate Tonkabean notes Fine tannins Invigorating long aftertaste Best 20152019
Wine: Idaia Ghi Kotsifali-Mandilari
Year: 2012
Link: http://www.idaiawine.gr
Score: 16.5
Type: Red
Area: Crete