All upcoming regions have seminal tastings Some are better publicised others less so In the not too distant 2000 at a press tasting in London organised by Steve Daniel then Buying and Marketing director at Oddbins and now at Novum he placed blind last in a lineup of Chardonnay tasting a ringer Chablis on steroids was one explicit comment The wine A 1999 oakfermented Santorini Argyros On a recent stay on the island of Thera better known internationally by its medieval Latin name Santorini I tasted several older vintages with Mattheos Argyros the fourth generation of this topnotch address We looked at 2006 2000 and 1997 The 2006 was a mere baby and the 1997 was reductive It was the 2000 that showed best It struck me as the closest this piece of volcanic rock in the southern Aegean will ever be stylistically to Puligny Montrachet with a hugely surprising nod to the Middle Mosel Over an hour or so I savoured it It just got better Holding up beautifully to the last drop There was some sea urchin lurking in my fluffy risotto This 2000 Santorini held its own against the onslaught of the rich in iodine sea urchin froth even rising to the crisp and sweet marathoriza finnochio Beyond the sheer pleasure of sharing this rarity with friends at Perivoli restaurant the telling factor of this hypothetical cross where Burgundy meets the thoroughbred purity of Santorini was that it was tank fermented No oak but time in bottle in a humid cool cellar at the Argyros estate Cork was in great shape too The very same wine a blend of Episkopi and Pyrgos vineyards continues today under the recently new label 2009 Assyrtiko Santorini Argyros Initially shy Slowly opening up to a subtle hazelnut aroma Whiff of the saline minerality and bracing acidity with which these wines are so blessed Revisiting the glass petrol and honey on the ever expanding aromatic complexity which follows through on a very long textured palate Supple classy minerality wrapped in a gentler bonedry linear finish All fronts in complete unison Best 20102014
Wine: Santorini Canava Argyrou
Year: 2000
Link: http://www.estate-argyros.com/
Score: 19
Type: White
Variety: Assyrtiko
Area: Aegean Islands