Most wine writers have a soft spot for one or two grapes. For argument’s sake lets split wine in two camps: hedonistic and cerebral. Agiorgitiko usually resides in the former. Xinomavro belongs mostly to the latter. Of course it is not black or white with crossover styles and whole body experiences confirming that wine is not simple. When we get that after the rain clarity shot with our senses and minds eye it takes your breath away as one prepares for the next adventurous challenge. My epiphany moment came when I was 22 while sharing a bottle of 1967 Barolo from Tenuta Maurizio Fracassi, La Morra. Jaw drops…can wine be this good? Can I have more of this? A long way from Paloumbi Sinarades on Corfu. For different reasons both these estates no longer exist yet their memories remain traveling companions along the journey. Loved the Barolo: the brick rimmed ruby colour, aromatics of violet & tar and that bitter almond tannic structure. It felt it came through the ether emanating from cellars nearby a misty Piedmonte square. It managed to be both cerebral and heart warming too. It defined a career change that has given me much pleasure in traveling and seeing the world and life through people, vineyards and their wines. There is a likeness in Nebbiolo and Xinomavro. Not in the aromatics, in the tannic high-acid for red grape structure. I declare myself a Xinomavrist though it is not always a gateway to wine heaven. Vine genes alone are not enough. Name place and human intervention with generous patience are important. There are mediocrities and off the mark a plenty. When the odd rough diamond appears a wry smile shades your face. When the real thing comes along ticking off all the boxes it strikes that carpe diem moment, its magic time.Recently I put together a dozen rosés. Provenance and grapes was diverse. Colour was all over the place, some close enough to qualify as medium-dark red to the palest of pastel pink. Most were off-dry but there were a few bone-dry examples. Not the most homogenous line up as several lacked focus in carving out a distinct identity. There is always something to learn from such exercises. Two stood out heads and shoulders above the rest. One is covered in this review the other will be featured later.
The Egnatia highway from the port of Igoumenitsa reaches all the way to Greek Thrace. It is the perfect wine tourism axis as it connects to numerous wine routes. Easy to access, the Tsillilis distillery was founded nearly 30 years ago. Brothers Makis and Kostas have established through hard work and ethos a success story through one the finest tsipouro(clear spirit), from Muscat of Hamburg, a specialty of the Thessaly plain. Their distillery and winery is in Raxa near the Meteora rocks and their hovering in the skye monasteries which continue to be an unforgetable natures drama filled picture. Ditto for the Theopetra cave where humans lived 130,000 years ago. Ioanna Tsilili the creative oenologist-distiller is responsible for a raft of new labels. Including the organic rosé from their estate on a slope not far from the Theopetra cave. Xinomavro is terroir sensitive, here it lies on soil consisting of clay, sand, and gravel on a sub soil of slate. The continental climate moderated by the river Pinios is noted for cold rainy winters and hot dry summers. It is sheltered to the west by the snow capped Pindos mountain and to the north from the Hasiotika mountain range. The diurnal difference is marked which determines the grapes expression and balance. The relative young 12 year old vines seem to fit like a glove the profile for this rosé. Thankfully it is not trying to mimic the Provence paler than paler trending the world over including a large number of Greek wineries. It showcases the strengths of the challenging yet rewarding character of this top notch grape. If you want to enjoy learning more about the versatility it offers then start with this attractive class leading example. In the cerebral camp it paints a pretty picture, boring it is not.
Natural cork. Harvested mid September. Platanos single vineyard. Organic. Colour flame red-pink. Strawberry scented, richly textured. Finishes clean with the telltale grapes attractive polished bite. Attention grabbing bone dry flinty mineral persistence and finesse. Drink 2018 -2021.
Wine: Theopetra Estate Xinomavro rosé 2017
Year: 2017
Link: http://www.tsililis.gr
Score: 17/20
Type: Rose
Variety: Xinomavro
Area: Central Greece