I have been looking at several dark horses from the lesserknown indigenous red varieties There are some truly unusual and different wines in the works Now that the so called heritage vines are increasingly coming into the fray an Australian Assyrtiko is on its way who knows what may catch on and create a worthy following So back to the new reds None impressed me more than the high potential of Limniona in the hand of Christos Zafeirakis To all of you keen on our varieties Limniona Greek spelling with omega is not to be confused with Limnio Lets look as to what has been unfolding in Tyrnavos In his late twenties Christos Zafeirakis will be much talked about in the future A brilliant farmer and oenologist with valuable work experience in Northern Italy he comes across far more mature than his age He and others such as Louiza and Thanos Dougos and Melina Tassou are the latest clutch of breezy characters to enliven the wine scene
First glance the rather dowdy front label has the outline of a mechanism in the background For an instant it reminded me of a navigation instrument such as a sextant and then the fascinating Antikythera instrument an early computer of sorts Well the forensics of the front label are divulged on the back label It states that it is a piece of a watch unearthed in the vineyard where the densely planted in 2005 Limniona took a new lease of life And who does not have a label story The Scops owl heard late at night by the label designer Or the engraved initials of the Polish stonemason found by accident while picnicking on the terraced vineyards in Switzerlands Valais The current crop of Greek labels is in dire need of improvement If one opens their eyes and ears a little who knows what is right there under our nose
So what is all the fuss for such a young vine newcomer Many sub plots Some clues The vines are trained high to achieve balanced fully ripened grapes The little that is known by technicians is that this thick skinned grape has remarkable resistance to oxidisation hence ageing potential Since 2000 much thought and research has been done by Zafeirakis and a leading nursery It is ongoing as the farming knowhow of this virtual unknown has only just started to be documented From my front row seat fascinating stuff For wine lovers it is nothing but good news
The grapes were initially fermented in a large wooden vat and then aged in second and third fill French oak barriques Vivid mediumdark not unlike a great Burgundy Blossoming into a fruited spice A new to me aroma so far nothing remotely like it in the Greek vineyard A nod of herbs Creamy Classy Despite the heat of the vintage a refreshingly present acidity Lacey At this stage a little facile young vine playfulness on the finish With bottle ageing it will open up One of the most exciting rediscoveries Available as of autumn 2009
Wine: Limniona Zafeirakis
Year: 2007
Link: http://www.zafeirakiswines.com
Score: 16.5
Type: Red
Variety: Limniona
Area: Thessalia