Frankly I never thought I would be writing these lines In essence this post has been in waiting for 17 years Whats it all about The missing link in todays Greek wine has arrived I cannot wait to share my enthusiasm on this new entry
In all of the fragmented Greek vineyard it is landlocked Amyndeon that boasts of the most impressive diurnal temperature variations Recent statistics only reinforce the comparative advantage of this cooler climate For several reasons it is ideal for sparkling wines
Xinomavro is an endlessly fascinating grape It is different in warmer Naoussa where the aromatics are more Mediterranean tomato vine comes to mind and in Goumenissa with its discreet spicy aroma and these are just two out of several nearby sites where this leading cultivar is to be found Furthermore the Xinomavroinduced aromatic and palate intensity would be overpowering for a sparkling wine The subtlety and freshness of Amyndeon wins hand down
What is admirable is that a relative newcomer the Dutchman Laurence Hartman found his way around this largely uncharted nuanced Xinomavro terroir Thanks to a thoughtthrough approach and the precision required for a handcrafted Methode traditionelle we are also seeing the more discreet side of this now booming region The choice of focusing on 40yearold vines contributes to a restrained polished profile
This Blanc de noir is a revelation It has been taught good manners Yet my gut feeling is that there is still so much more to learn and receive from this now urbanized stronggene peasant For this I what I can only liken it to due to the infinite guises and name places to which this grape is capable of morphing into I urge you to search elsewhere on this site my chronicling of the new wave of Xinomavro and blends If you like wines that speak to heart and mind then you may have found a new soul mate
To date of the 12 wineries now operating in Amyndeon Domaine Karanika has under its belt the most convincing effort in this underinvested category Catch early this unfolding act and pokerfaced glass in hand go ahead and surprise your friends Serve it blind As this goingplaces address grows I expect new nuances to be introduced to this so far allblack grape cuvee Perhaps some of the delectable 2011 vintage could undergo its secondary fermentation in magnums
Beyond pleasure further clues could be gleamed on the microclimate and the silt sandy and limestone bedrock on which these vineyards sit Laurence is a thinker he plans ahead Beyond a twinkle in his eye there is grit It serves him well This is an estate to watch As I leave his smiling wife Annette and a school of dogs see me off in the autumn afternoon mist Heading west on the Egnatia Highway to underrevival Siatista for yet another Xinomavro youknowwhat
Pinkgrey hues Fine small bead mousse Yeasty Subtle gunflint Hint of strawberry Finely defined tannins Vibrant tangy acid Persistent string of pearls beads with no sign of going flat even after 15 minutes in a fluted glass Neat and lightfooted elegant even From the 2009 maiden vintage Best 2012 2015
Wine: Domaine Karanika Cuvée Speciale Brut
Year: 2009
Link: http://www.karanika.com
Score: 17
Type: Sparkling
Variety: Xinomavro
Area: Macedonia