Early October Metsovo It has been a strange spring and summer especially in northwestern Greece Unusually high rainfall and cooler weather which was even more accentuated up here in the Pindos Just as the Katogi new wine bar opened in July daytime temperatures dropped to 7 C Short bursts of heat spells never materialised Hence autumn colours of infinite variations of yellow brown and rust are less pronounced As I write these words the mist is thick over the surrounding mountains It is pouring down In the Katogi steep hillside vineyards only the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are still on the vines They will be harvested around mid to late October Quantity up here is a guessing game Beyond weather vagaries a further culprit comes in the guise of a fourlegged creature the brown bear native to Pindos Bears have already taken their share of the earlierripening aromatic Traminer and Pinot Noir They do not return for the CS until acidity levels drop and the skin of this ubiquitous grape is less tannic
Yet the bear issue goes beyond the vineyard Their natural habitat has been interrupted by the newlyfinished Egnatia freeway The insufficient provision of safe passages for the animals and proper fencing has caused serious accidents Electric fencing is now to be installed This solution is not financially viable for the Katogi vineyards Annual losses run upwards of 1520 of the harvest
Two new entries have been added to the promising native red Vlahiko and Pinot Noir in the Rossiu di Munte series These limitedproduction wines are only available at cellardoor sales So if you venture to this mountain range you may glimpse a bear or two Apparently a mother and cub were captured on a mobile phone camera crossing a paved road within sight of the vineyard one midsummer afternoon Though there are several Greek SyrahViogniers on the scene this variation with Traminer is a first to my understanding Though everdemanding Greekwine lovers seem to have turned their backs in numbers to most Cabernet Sauvignonbased or varietal wines Syrah is their new sweetheart nonindigenous grape Not a surprising change as there are several Syrah vineyards with wonderful vins de terroir emerging in diverse soils altitudes and latitudes
Purpleblue rimmed dark Initially reductive Opens up to florality A grind of Malabar pepper With more aeration violet and tar Silky tannins with a vinous core Layered Just enough caskderived tannins A juicy hedonistic wine Best 20102014
Wine: Syrah – Traminer Rossiu di Munte Katogi Averoff
Year: 2008
Link: http://www.katogihotel.gr/
Score: 17
Type: Red
Variety: Syrah
Area: Epirus