Discovering two terroirs within the same year is a treat Thebes and the nearby hillsides were on my shortlist of new scouting grounds Even for this traveller I never expected to stumble on such an important find Yet again a fascinating puzzle has landed on my desk
Kontoura is a synonym for the grape Savatiano In these hills it goes by the former name There is a flurry of emails to technicians who to my surprise had never been to the Valley of Muses a historyrich valley lying 60 kilometres east of Delphi In the village of Askri farmhands and old boys seeing the days out in the cafes are being asked to help out What plots were planted when What nursery supplied the vines Clones Are we looking at Kanellatos or the highly thought of Perachoritis Or something entirely out of time and place thus new to all of us Will keep you abreast of findings
This puzzle started while tasting from tank the 2010 Kontoura at the Samartzis spotless and tidy winery Each tank had such a clear imprint of place Expressed in fruit textured with the sappiness often found in quality Kontoura a tasty acidity glycerolbased fat As true terroir this wine slowly reveals itself in a subtle language There was something beyond the 380 to 420 m altitude and the lowest yields I have ever encountered 800900 kg per 1000 sq m for this usually overcropped grape The microclimate of this valley in the shadow of Mount Helicon on the northern edge of the Mount Parnassus massif 2457 m 8061 ft is the real deal There is still more ground to cover Soon off back on the wine routes for springtime adventures Twelve years ago there was a memorable Savatiano at what was then the Coop of Thebes It was sourced from Mount Cithaeron See you there
Floral melon Rich bold and silky Sappy core Gravel minerality Layered Texture and creaminess Focused Terroir shines Raises the bar From all the known indigenous grapes none is more food versatile
Wine: Dyo Potamia [Two Rivers] Samartzis
Year: 2010
Link: http://www.samartziswines.gr/
Score: 16.5
Type: White
Variety: Savatiano
Area: Central Greece