Santorinis climate is classified as desert and so is the nearby island of Anafi Perched on the caldera ridge the westernlying remaining vineyards of Santorini share marine humidity and incoming fog This usually occurs when the southwestern winds are blowing Streaks of mist and sometimes thick fog bounce off the caldera and continue their trajectory reaching the first half of the island The burnoff imparts precious moisture This natural cooling also slows down grape development with harvest starting in the first week of August Pyrgos which reaches 300m is usually one of the last to be harvested up to two weeks later Though the fog varies what does not is the proximity and the humid and cooling effect of the sea below the caldera cliffs Veteran farmer Nikos Pelekanos laments that the finest grapes were those of Imerovigli 280m They now lie under luxury boutique hotels albeit with breathtaking views
What happens on the eastern side of the island in the loweraltitude vineyards Vourvoulos is one of the first to harvest Ditto for neighbouring Exo Gialos The reviewed single vineyard all of 14 hectares is planted to Assyrtiko Yorgos Koutsoyannopoulos is handsdown the most unassuming man of the islands current producers Openminded measured succinct in his comments a pragmatist During a visit he illuminated The actual vineyard lies in the subzone of Aspra Homata at Exo Gialos It is fully ripe by end of July at times nudging in to the first days of August It lacks moisture Yields are low even by Santorini averages He credits his US importer Dionysi Grevenitis with the idea of separately vinifying this plot of 70100yearoldvines
To varying degrees Santorinis bonedry wines share a marine element This single vineyard reaches further More than any other Greek wine Santorini is liquid geography It reaches beyond coordinates altitude and deeprooted ungrafted vines on a windswept volcanic moonscape Swirl it in a decanter Let it breathe When did you last experience the Aegean cobalt blue in your glass
Less oxidative than the 2013 Skin contact Tankfermented no oak Wet stones salinity No angularities followed by a smooth linear very long finish Returning wave of intense minerality and palateawakening bright acidity Intricately flavoured varietal punch Satisfying and convincing Another piece revealed of this oneofkind vinous jigsaw puzzle Worth watching Best 20152025
Wine: Koutsoyannopoulos Santorini Ksera Homata
Year: 2014
Link: http://www.wine-museum-koutsoyannopoulos.gr
Score: 18
Type: White
Variety: Assyrtiko
Area: Aegean Islands