Mavrotragano finds a new mother.
Readers of these pages may be aware that I have never been a fan of Santorini Mavrotragano. It is overrated and of poor value. The late Haridimos Hatzidakis, who first began to research the variety, made marked progress with it, though the result was still not really convincing with angularity and drying tannin issues. Santorini’s vibration perhaps wasn’t suited to this taking-no-prisoners grape. (Currently, the other Aegean tannic-high acid, age-old grape, Mandilari, wins my top spot. First reviewed in this blog, the Lyrarakis Plakoura from central Crete has reached 2017 at a new level—it is one of my go-to winter treats.) Mavrotragano translates to ‘black, crunchy’, an accurate descriptive name. It has an easier life going for it than Skylopnihtis [dog choker]—is that not a wonderful name?—found in Lakonia in the southern Peloponnese. Mavrotragano now turns up in other parts of the country such as Tinos, Pieria, on the outskirts of Thessaloniki and Drama. My curiosity went sky-high when I heard of a 12-year-old Mavrotragano vineyard on western Crete in Lousakiés, above the town of Kissamos (Kasteli).
The road up to this relatively recent venture was quite a ride. Only a lightweight, narrow four-by-four could have got us there and back again. Twin brothers Manolis and Yiannis Pateromichelakis are farmers. Like most of their colleagues in this semi-mountainous Crete, they grow olives. (The olive oil in Kolymbari in western Crete is viscous, and through my wine spectacles I find it deliciously distinctive, a stylistic counterpoint to that other olive-oil marvel, the silky treats of eastern, arid Sitia.) As we walk to Domata, a plateau 330m high, vistas overlooking Kissamos bay and the two peninsulas of Gramvousa & Diktina, the view is breathtaking. The loam soil is ideal for vines. Their 40 stremata (4 hectares) of Mavrotragano, Romeiko & Syrah and Malvasia Aromatica & Moshato Spinas hold the current vineyard mix. In the once-abandoned, now-restored stone houses of the village of Merada, they have built—by hand—No Bank Loans, a boutique winery. The P. brothers are not your usual stubborn, know-it-all boys. A broader teamwork consists of an exemplary cast. Vineyardist Demetris Tsoupeis guided them in their first steps, and continues with valuable input in this exciting venture.
Their hands are leather-like as we part. They are modest, hard working and committed in their revival of their ancestral, wine-making heritage. They sell most of their grapes to finance their wine cellar. They have focused on two reds: the reviewed Mavrotragano, aged in American oak, and an eye-poppingly good Romeiko, which is a new departure for this under-revival, local specialty. Chania-based oenologist, Giannis Galanakis, whose firm was founded in 1924, keeps track of cellar hygiene. Anna Goulioti, a partner with the leading Ampelooeniki [viticulture] consulting, Thermi-based agency, has also been on the all-star team since 2010. This effort is what Greek farmers-in-crisis (2008) are so good at: against the odds, bravely investing and giving it a go. Confession time: I have bought bottles of this Mavrotragano. They do not deserve to go in a cupboard, but in a cellar to track their ageing evolution. This find is a welcome surprise, confirming that grapes are not always at their best expression where we first discover them. At this juncture, who would have thought Crete would steal the show?
Almost ‘black’. Feral. Vivacious nose. As it unfolds it exudes a whiff of leather with fruitcake spice accents. 2 hours later there is floral complexity and wet earth. Concentrated juicy fruitiness throughout the palate. Coconut ‘sweetness’ imparted from an American-oak cask. A master class of silky (for this grape) tannin over the generous flavour profile with balance and tension. Mouth-watering vinosity on the tail. Well done, rustic. Impressive debut. What a treat pairing with chestnut & mushroom stew foraged from the Syrikari forest. 2020-2026
Wine: Ktima Π Mavro 2017
Year: 2017
Link: http://www.pateromichelakis.info
Score: 17/20
Type: Red
Variety: Mavrotragano
Area: Crete