There are two stories of how this grape was named Vilanios slave ie workhorse The more romantic notion a Venetian era descriptive of the gnarled bush vines From this unique to Crete specialty so far we have seen dry white wine with a floral spice viscous palate supported by good acidity Different useful good though not great If it did lack something it was punch to make an impression beyond its individuality On a recent extensive trip this and other efforts confirm that Crete is beginning to realize its potential in its white and dark skinned grapes Lyrarakis has been source scouring most of the island Their 25yo ungrafted Sitia Assyrtiko is a find Nikos Somarakis the house agronomist is the link between vines winemaking and marketing He drives around a lot consulting with their farmers He also has a keen eye in looking out for sites of exception The rich in rare DNA Fourfoura plot on the western foothills of MtPsiloritis above Rethymno had IRNAs JeanMichel Boursiquot enthralled When I visited this forgotten vineyard to shoot a interview video I knew that this was ampelographers Noahs Ark Few other places have given me such a buzz of standing on something so rare and special
Lyrarakis was founded in 1966 Bart and George Lyrarakis are now guiding this progressive ever improving address It is the hillsides above their estate at Alagni that they reconnected with also a second generation associate farmer Vassilis Topsis As we got into real 4X4s the vertiginous climb was quite an experience Eventually we stood on Pirovolikes an eastern exposure vineyard It does not look as it was planted recently In fact the Vilana bush vines were planted 27 years ago by Topsis father The entire vineyard is enclosed for protection from sheep and goats that roam these hills Somarakis is not one to rush After reconnecting with Topsis oenologist Myriam Abuzer made the wine in 2013 to evaluate its potential It was with the 2014 they captured that elusive bond between nature and vine Teamwork pays off in these important discoveries Somarakis thinks that the slow long ripening period is one of the reasons this varietal single vineyard stands out Topsis adds Snow not just a dusting covers yearly the vineyard As we stand in silence I am taking all this in Off the ridge four bald headed eagles soar on the thermal off this 650m mouthful to pronounce of a place site To our left the village of Panorama Ahead the deep open vistas filled with winters calm before the storm Shades of grey and sun beams are in frames of a still mode film Somehow natures wisdom rubs off in this breakthrough Vilana Crete is getting serious
Pale golden Petrol notes Beguiling depth of fruit Beeswax Mineral kick on the textured classy chalky dry finish Fresh and clean Seamless oak adding honeyd creaminess Big bold different Tension throughout the introduction middle story and epilogue This is redefining Vilana Best 20162021
Wine: Lyrarakis Pirovolikes Vineyard Vilana
Year: 2014
Link: http://www.lyrarakis.com
Score: 18
Type: White
Variety: Vilana
Area: Crete