Captures grape and place
Leaving Monemvasia heading towards Arcadia where the Mantinia plateau lies, is one the great drives from one wine region to another. The change of landscape could not be more interesting. To one’s left is the imposing mass of Mt.Taygetos(2404m). In winter it is snow covered though in midd summer there is not a patch in sight. My minds eye jumps around in the adventures on this mountain by Patrick Leigh Fermor’s brilliant book ‘Mani’. In reading it again it remain timeless. Having not before driven from this end of the eastern Peloponnese it was a large piece of the jigsaw puzzle falling into place. After Sparti(today’s Sparta) driving through a peak at 870m one gently ‘glides’ into Mantinia. One can feel more the change from this side than from Corinth or Patras. One can easily see how this landlocked middle part of the Peloponnese is a 650-750m high plateau. Fruit is different, apples, cherries, pears and plums. In places, it is less maritime Mediterranean with walnut, Greek fir and black pine forests on the mountain sides. The diurnal temperature difference is marked. It is also home to the indigenous Moschofilero grape. Bosinakis is one of the pioneering families instrumental with putting it on the map. Currently at the helm are the second generation Katerina and her brother Sotiris, oh what a breath of fresh air they are. Over the years they have weaved a network of farmers that work closely with them. On our walk about we met enlightened farmer Dimitris Katsoulas at the village of Steno. This family business was built with sweat equity and ethos towards and reciprocated by their supplier farmers. In a country where the economy is in its 8th year contracting continues untold damage it is encouraging to see still, social fibre in wine supporting each other.
If there is any proof needed while tasting with this producer is how important vintages are here. This regions meso-climate reflect sunshine, rain and temperature indices. The reviewed wine is a better vintage than previous year with frost, hail and a downpour on 25 June. Yet the 2015 was a warm vintage there is marked pink tinge holding well. The 2014 is creamy, depth, excellent finish. Experience shows that in healthy and ripe vintages their wines are best enjoyed with in 3 -5 years. From the semi-aromatic grapes I find it more interesting than many Malagousia’s. It is invariably pink skinned, floral, muscaty, with a natural vibrancy which the current clone of Malagousia lacks, though smaller berried-higher acidity is being slowly introduced. There are different approaches – Bosinakis have very much their own style. It is not showy or technical over the top stripped of their core character. It is honest and has a very clear expression they remain loyal to. The vintage hall mark shines through. In addition to the reviewed wine they also produce from the same grape IEREIA, a rosé. It is also distinctive and different with it’s deeper colour than the other wines of this in vogue style. It is ages since I visited an address with only two labels. Though I repeat my self in suggesting to several to stay focused on their strengths and down size have yet to see anyone to take up this advice. Human foibles and market forces seem to prevail above common sense.
Synthetic closure. Pink tinged. Rose petal scented. Pit stone aroma. Fresh and mouthwatering. Textured. Broad bone dry fruity template with real energy through out. Tart cherry with a hint of minerality on the playful finish. Captures grape and place. Perfect ripeness has given a rare viscosity for this region. Easy drinking – for fruit laden wine lovers a great introduction to modern Greek white. Adding chillies in your food will unlock the other lesser seen side of this wine. 2018-2020.