Borderline
There are quite a lot of things that have shifted on Santorini, not always in the right direction. As I write these lines the number of wine producing addresses are 18. Rumor has it that other’s will be joining perhaps in time for the 2020 vintage. One thing is certain, even a wine from a mosaic like blend from the larger sub regions will grab your attention. They may not be aromatic easy drinking or digest easily but they rarely leave one indifferent. On a recent visit, I had several eyebrow lifting moments. If you think that we actually know anything about this battered jewel of a vineyard then think again. Despite the relentless building claiming more valuable vineyards in the two largest remaining slopes of Pyrgos and the less talked, though equally impressive vineyard of Megalochori, if you take a stroll you will find shut several of the last bulk merchants that were still operating in early 1980’s. Some have been remodeled as high-end boutique hotels or artist workshops.
After discovering this new to me single vineyard on a rare for this island windless autumn afternoon I had the luxury to scout where the actual vineyard lies. Louroi, Greek for belt and the word Platià is wide. It is in essence the wide strip from the various Louroi subplots. Name places have fascinating histories. Some are straight forward others as intricate as they can come. More on this in a moment. There are two old agricultural roads in these slopes. One leads to the chapel of St. George of the Poor and the other one starts out on the edge of Pyrgos by the side of a pharmacy. The second route is more rural, well, for the time being. The walk was illuminating as I progressed taking in how much space actually is needed to build these large in size houses. Access roads, different levels of construction, balconies for the sunset vistas actually claim a much larger vineyard surface that one imagines when making from afar, wrong spatial assumptions. At the very bottom of Megalochori just before the large bakery-coffee shop is Kontarades one the finest vineyards named after a family who’s ancestors were spear(kontari)carrying soldiers. It is almost flat yet the Assyrtiko here has been in high repute for years. There are many name places, which we never get to see their singular thumb print as most merge into the 18 wineries. Yet there is always, a but. I was elated when I heard that Karamolegos had been researching for several years and now had 3 vineyards to show. It is under the guidance of gifted agronomist-oenologist Lefteris Anagnostou that the Karamolegos wines have found a clear definition across the range that was lacking in their early steps. If you think that Santorini is an easy puzzle to decipher for these new generation technicians just listen to them and one can not agree more what a challenge it is. Yet the rewards are worth the effort as these selected vineyards showcase. There was more good news that is the most significant renewal commitment in this under real estate demand vanishing vineyard, that I have witnessed in years. Artémis Karamolegos clearly understands that with all the building frenzy on the island he has to react before it is too late. He is planting Assyrtiko ”all over” and Aidani at Akrotiri, even some Mavrotragano at Kamari. The development value of 15 hectares is above what it once was one of a kind agricultural land. Proof indeed that deeds speak louder than even written words.
Louroi-Platia is on the lower part of Pyrgos borderline with Megalochori. Over 150 yo vines. 100% Assyrtiko. Bottle no: 0947/2050. 13,5% Alcohol by volume. Lot: LO30818. 11 months kept on its lees. Additional 12 months in bottle. The back label quote: ”Pleasure has no relish unless we share it.” – Virginia Wolf. Pale with green tints. A creamy tease on the subtle scented white flower fragrance. Balancing ‘sweetness’ with mineral vinosity. Just enough presence with none of the over the top exuberance now found in several labels. Refined without loosing it’s tell tale smokey wet stone salinity. Polished with a sappy long lasting supple finish. A compelling expression of a bone dry Santorini. 2020-2032.
Wine: Artémis Karamolegos Winery Louroi-Platia Santorini
Year: 2017
Link: http//www.artemiskaramolegos-winery.com
Score: 18,5/20
Type: White
Variety: Assyrtiko
Area: Aegean Islands