After orange wine is edge the next thing One never knows I doubt it By their very nature they are challenging and demanding wines Some say that the world is full of smoothtannined fruit bombs and there is a niche for such styles This is a valid argument
This review is about an estate en route from edge to modernity while maintaining its identity a tightrope act worth following closely
The Naoussa Protected Designation Of Origin PDO vineyard sits on numerous undulating foothills of Mount Vermion
Ever heard of Mantemi It lies due north and lower of the slope of Gastra Walking it was illuminating Topsoils are intriguing with sandy clay and large green stones of an unidentified porous material Different to Gastras and to everything else I have come across in this clutch of dispersive vineyards for that matter It reminded me that there are several Naoussa subregions that are not really suitable for viticulture Naoussa is not alone in this such areas exist in much grander addresses There are other crops too such as peaches and cherries
So far Mantemi is a monopoly to Yiorgos Diamantakos who has focused on wine contrary to his tsipourodistiller father Evangelos Polishing up partly hidden terroir Yiorgos has quietly produced a string of Naoussas since the 2006 vintage They translate the vintages albeit without clearly defining their name place yet in a welcome development in the change of guard at Diamantakos
Dark ruby Slowly opens up to earth sous bois It then blossoms to strawberry scents Cocoa Depth Tannins reminiscent of Renato Rattis Nebbiolos with increased volume firework aromatics and an intense palate Sweet strawberry and graphite on the bitteralmond edgy rich in glycerol finish A highly strung thoroughbred At this juncture three hours of decanting and all parts meet in harmony Serve at cellar temperature Best 20122018
Wine: Naoussa Diamantakos
Year: 2007
Link: http://www.diamantakos.gr
Score: 17
Type: Red
Variety: Xinomavro
Area: Macedonia