In one of my recent introductions to Greek wine in Geneva Switzerland that is the shock value of this wine amongst 7 other labels I was showcasing was on cue Even the more reserved and less expressive amongst a discerning group more akin in discussing the nuances of Burgundys most distinctive name places reacted with looks of disbelief The highacid mineralic structure of Santorini leaves few if anyone indifferent Eric Asimov the wine critic of the NewYork Times wrote about a Santorini a couple years back during an impromptu tastingin plasticcups during a tourist convention in the big Apple Amongst other lesser known impressive wines was the elder brother label of WF Gaias Thalassitis Which thanks to its export successes has helped this volcanic islands unique wines to create an international cult following
The George Clooney lookalike partner and oenologist at GaiaYiannis Paraskevopoulos had a twinkle in his eye when he casually dropped the hint that a wild ferment Assyrtiko was on the drawing board The thing with wild yeasts is that they have an idiosyncratic agenda all of their own One quite never knows how they will behave and what the final result will be My note taking books are littered with unflattering weird epithets Though WF is not an easy wine happy to report that this effort stands proud with confidence mirroring the extraordinary terroir it is born on Not just for this limited release newcomer a tip Santorinis show best after aerating them in a carafe for 1520 minutes
Platinum green tints A profusion of pyrhitic mineralic aromas Hint of oak Big ripe White pepper Impressively pungent with a seamless duo of intense acidity and a layered very austere structured grapefruit saline finish Compact with extract Here the term bone dry scales new heights In other words Hardly a sipping wine It shouts for food However focused and intriguing this effort is the cynic in me thinks it as a clever marketing gimmick As the overwhelming count me in on thismajority will opt for the 2008 Thalassitis It has more fruit and does not explore the extreme edged territory WF has ventured in
Wine: Assyrtiko by Gaia Wild Ferment
Year: 2008
Link: http://www.gaia-wines.gr/
Score: 18
Type: White
Variety: Assyrtiko
Area: Aegean Islands