One of the then dormant wine regions that helped convincing me to do my first books was Santorini with its bonedry wines Back in the mid1990s camomileyellow colour was de rigeur in oxidative angular wines lacking polish Yet their character was as singular as Islays Laphroaig malt whisky Even during this rustic period there were compelling wines I have witnessed many changes from my frontrow seat over the past 19 years Boutaris arrived ushering in an era of awakening Soon historic addresses like Argyros changed their ways A host of new boutique wineries were founded amongst them Sigalas Gaia and Hatzidakis There are 11 wineries now If not for getting entangled in the postByzantineOttoman maze of contradictory legislature and red tape the 12th winery would soon have been opening their cellar doors Santo Wines is sizewise the single most important producer It buys 60 of the islands current average production of 3500 tonnes of grapes They too have been through a sea of changes Their sprawling winery has some location There are other spots in the world graced with breathtaking backdrops of vine South Africas scenery springs to mind The view of Santos winery over the everchanging theatre of light of the jagged cliffs of the Caldera simply has no equal and is a candidate for any topten world site list in which Santorini seems to be a perennial favourite destination Santos wines were reliable but failed to grab attention Their first signal of change was their Athiri 2009 eyeopener which has been reviewed on this web site Their Athiri 2012 is toothsome Reminiscent in style to Cretes other rarity Thrapsathiri largeberried Athiri found in Sitia In this pretty vintage Santos oenologist Nikos Barbarigos managed to find that situpandtakenotice factor He sourced selected Assyrtiko from Pyrgos and Imerovigli A striking combination of two premium subregions It is good to see Santo joining the quality race highlighting individuality on this everfascinating littleknown oneofakind terroir Next time you reach for a drop of Laphroaig think of smokey briny held together by Aegean sunlight Santorini Assyrtiko Their souls are a lot closer than their geographical coordinates would allow you to imagine
Textbook aroma of Assyrtiko in a vibrant cocktail of seabreeze freshness with a touch of limelemon zestiness Slightly honeyed Bracing intense acidity full of flintstone mineral smokiness Bonedry mouthwatering foodbegging finish This wine has a complete story to tell with a great introduction a fascinating plot and a thrilling finish A remarkable comeback
Wine: Assyrtiko Santo Wines
Year: 2012
Link: http://www.santowines.gr
Score: 17,5
Type: White
Variety: Assyrtiko
Area: Aegean Islands