With Greeces entry in 1981 to the common European Market structural funds became available Until then Greek wine was carved up by four behemoths In this antiquated wine scene a sea of change unfolded Many of the allnew cooperatives that sprouted were political driven There is no doubt of the initial and longlasting impact Due to infighting a few became lame ducks Though stricken they were given a lifeline of sorts through political handouts in exchange for votes Inevitably marketing inertia forced many to became banks I will get back to this later On the western leg of the Peloponnesos Nestor Cooperative of Messinia was set up and on a grand scale too The world was not yet interested in indigenous grapes at the time Santorini Assyrtiko was a unwanted child going for 50 Drachmas a kg Instead acres were planted with the ubiquitous Cabernet Sauvignon So much so that by the mid1990s the new midsize names or merchants sourced CS from Nestor Merchants would dip into the huge CS reserves to top up their brands then on their last leg sold mostly to Greek tavernas such as those in the German market Eventually this and other not pragmatic business models simply died out The world is a much changed place since those giddy days This holds true also for the now reenergised world of Greek wine where 84 of wineries are privately owned Out of Nestor came Dimitris Panagiotopoulos who founded in 2004 with his family the eponymous winery and 25 hectares of vineyards From a dozen labels the standout is the Malagousia Bio Not all of Greece is suitable for organic farming All the more so if your neighbours happen to farm on different principles There is another enticing alas little seen feature on this cracker of a wine a screw cap Those who should be using this closure type are in the hundreds up down the country But that is another story Yannis Flerianos who consults to other boutique wineries in a wide crosssection of latitudes and grape varieties nailed one of the most intriguing of these currently in vogue varietals Its the difference with its dip into the exotic side of this semiaromatic grape that is worth seeking This endorsement comes with a twist Though I understand the reasons for the popularity of this fashionable grape currently Malagousia sits nowhere near the top of my current shortlist If I was just discovering wine it could well be a favourite A lifetime ago a neophyte to wine in London an almost unpronounceable grape initially impressed me This was none other than the hedonistic swirling fruitsalad bowl of Alsace Gewurztraminer This once tasted never forgotten sensation was just a path on my way to discovering and enjoying Chablis and Mosel Riesling Does Charcos ring a bell
Pachimari single vineyard at Pirgos Trifilias Alluvial soil Altitude 500m Organically farmed The wine Initially closed it opens up slowly Marked freshbasil nose A cocktail unfolds on the palate of citrus muscat and spice Did I mention it opens up slowly There is so much more character here that I kept it in the fridge for 12 hours Utterly different wine Less exuberant on the nose All exotic fruit attractive grip Underlined by a subtle smokey mineral tow Depth and texture rarely seen in this grape Focused and concentrated Good balance of modern winemaking knowhow and terroir Top vintage A jewel Best 20142018
Wine: Ktima Panagiotopoulou Malagousia Bio
Year: 2013
Link: http://www.ktimapanagiotopoulos.gr
Score: 17.5
Type: White
Variety: Malagousia
Area: Peloponnese