The setting the Venetian Grand Arsenal overlooking the port of Chania A beautifully restored 15thcentury dockyard it is possibly the finest venue for a wine tasting in Greece The 8th Oinotika was a wellorganized enlightening show Large airy room cool temperature A civilized flow of tasters that allowed wine scribes to do our business Genuine engagement good questions Generous bonhomie and humour encouraging the high amount of 30somethings attending This was also an opportunity to meet the most obscure addresses especially from the farflung western reaches of this continent of an island
On a west to east axis highlights that stood out include
Pnevmatikaki Kritopelagitis 2014 White An intriguing blend of Vilana and Romeiko with fruity earthiness
Manousakis Mourvedre 2012 Perfumed civilized smooth tannins
Dourakis Euphoria A dessert wine from sundried Romeiko orange wine minus all the funky stuff Bergamot scented silky
Alexakis Athiri Dandelion Textured vineyarddriven minerality
Maragakis 8th Art Vidiano 2014 One of the shows brightest stars White flowers bursting with pit stone fruit
Douloufakis Dafnios Liatiko 2013 Boldly scented thought provoking
Lyrarakis Mandilari 2012 Plakoura Vineyard Spice vinosity classleading ripe tasty tannins
Digenakis Marisini 2011 Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon and Liatiko Clever blend where the terroir imprint dominates the mostly cosmopolitan grapes
Diamantakis VidianoAssyrtiko 2014 Apricot fruit in a pungent mineral cocktail
Nikos Gavalas Fragospito 2014 Malvazia and Spinas Muscat organically farmed at 400 m Sensual aromatics with a sense of place
Stilianou Winery Kotsifali Sundriedcitrusrindinfused nectar
Idaia Gi 2010 KotsifaliMandilari Brimming with old vine concentration
Silva Daskalaki Enstikto 2010 Remarkable Syrah from 22 yearold vines from a high welldraining plateau
Strataridakis the southernmost winery of Europe A candidate for the finest Spinas Muscat on the isle Focused unusual depth refined Retaste the dry one after daydreaming on the dessert version
Beyond the show getting around is another matter Winetourism development is a nogo without a safe modern road network At best roads date from the 1950s Blind corners potholes destabilizing heaving falling rocks Simply dangerous To paraphrase those famous lines from Zorba the Greek the smashing film hit of the 1960s the complete catastrophy One has to adapt slow down escape from the main routes to Venetianera built and restored villages such as Kastelos Or simply walk the numerous wellmapped gorges Get lost in the maquis home to marine fossils covered with rare herbs or miniature prinos oak Watch rare birds on thermals readying the plunge attack Climb with guides one of the islands four majestic mountains such as the Lefka Ori 2400 m
In discovering new to me addresses I managed safely to do a nervewracking coasttocoast run from Chania to Sitia But I did not manage to run into a handful of addresses with faulty wines Cellar hygiene issues such as reductiveness or bret These can be relatively easy to fix There is also a breakaway group which is overdelivering Thanks to the rich diversity of their soil types unique grape mix altitude northfacing vines cooled by the Aegean winds the best of Crete are compelling wines Much to report here