The advantage of new blood
The second tasting of Artisanal Wines of Greece had subplot increasing tension. Some of the more interesting comments came not from wine experts but amateurs in the best sense of the word. In their twenties, a young Athenian turned to his friend saying ‘ these people are are cut from a different cloth, they differ from other show’s. The response was illuminating ‘ yes their hands are caloused they grow their own grapes.” Now that is food for thought. With 44 wineries and 490 labels there is not enough time to taste comprehensively. Some of the highlights new to me discoveries include: From Patmos the Patoinos Mavrathiriko a red grape was impressive with fine aromatics and smooth tannin. From Thrace, the homogenous range of Anatolikos Vineyards did not have a weak link. From Naoussa Dalamara continues improving. One of the eye opening experiences was Bosinakis. Their Mantinia could be tasted back to 2010 which was still alive showing us ageing potential not previously understood. The 2017 was a star just approaching it’s drinking window. How very grown up these wines are now. In my first books Mantinia was nothing more than 11,3%ABV, a high acid lacking body faint Muscat aroma – at best a lightweight facile aperitif wine. If you think that it is all about patriotric name dropping it is not so. To my understanding, the most tannic of them all, above Tannat, is Sagrantino, farmed at the Alatas Winery established in 2012 in warmer Thessaly. With climate change it increasingly looks like an inspired choice. From northern Evia Vriniotis keeps turning out a sur lie Assyrtiko challenging Santorini’s finest with a lower price bracket. From the little known vinous treasures of the Ionian islands Ktima Grampsas explores Avgoustiatis grape convincingly in many styles showing the diversity in flavour profiles these islands are richly endowed. From high vineyards of Corinth, Ktima Parargyriou with it’s just finished new winery keeps focusing in expanding high altitude vineyards with the little seen Mavrostyfo and a Cuvee Esperance, a wine from another red grape whose DNA profile is under research.
In the post Covid 19 era the economy has entered it’s second contraction. Yet one fights on as several artisan industries have contributed to new growth. Wine is one the most visible. For decades it was hidden in the ethnic markets of the diaspora or at best becoming the lowest of shelf space actually let me rephrase that to shoe level better known as ‘dust collectors.’ Things have changed. One no longer sees big brands from your summer holidays instead one finds smartly packaged graphics with sense of place with a story to tell. No half-men half-goat myth characters about. Instead a slew of indigenous grapes that may be a tongue twister to pronounce. Tasting is believing like the lighter bodied supple red Limniona people say.’ Oh, I get it, and buy into it’, is this what Greek wine is all about? No, there are scores of other red, pink skinned and white grapes covering all known styles. Some are cerebral and sophisticated especially for the asking price. AWG was founded 3 years ago by 21 farmer growers. They now number 50 with more applications pending. Geographically they reach a number of islands and the mountainous mainland. 1995 was the departure of the wine revolution that made people take notice of the changes. 25 years later a better prepared second wave is truly now with us. This movement has startled the home market and exports showed more than passing interest with foreign professionals booking early their flights attending both days. It is also giving the bruised wine community after years of misery for a much needed feel good factor. Have not witnessed such measured optimism in ages. The momentum AWG has gained is nothing short of watching a long neglected cultural tradition being reinvented and brought into the 21st century through hard work risk taking. Their success has been meritocratic which may have been a high held ideal in classical Greece though sadly absent from today’s cultural landscape. AWG seems to be on a good thing, they have well thought plans to take this historic vineyard to the next level. Timing is not shabby either as hipster sommeliers want and support these type of artisanal wines.